DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

 

One aspect of photography that is often misunderstood is that when you take a picture you are not capturing an instant but rather a period in time. During this period things happen and the choices you make when taking your picture will fundamentally change the results you get. Movement in photographs should be captured deliberately, making sure that it looks like that was the plan. A picture that is just a little blurred will usually look just that, a little blurred. 

Any camera can capture movement but the amount of control you have will determine the amount of movement that you are able to show. The longer the shutter speed the more movement can be captured. Consider the best camera modes to use for your situation. 

For most pictures featuring movement, you should use a tripod but there will be times when just shooting plenty of pictures hand-held will be a better strategy.
 

1. Techniques to adopt

The technique you need to adopt will depend upon what you are trying to say. Digitally you can shoot and review what is happening and if the movement is too much use a faster speed; if they are too ‘static’ use a slower speed. Typically you should try shooting at about 1/15th or 1/30th with a reasonably fast subject. Panning can be done on a tripod, but the results will be quite different. It is essential if using a tripod (or monopod) that the camera should be able to follow the action accurately if the moving action is at an angle to the camera movement you will struggle to get usable pictures. 

 

2. Blur can be good

However, this doesn't mean you have to keep the subject sharp. In this shot of the Tour de France, nothing is really sharp, but there is a clear difference between the blurriness of the crowd and the slightly sharper rider and this makes the picture more dynamic. 
 

3. But does the camera need to move?

Sometimes it is not necessary for the camera to be moving at all. Fixing the camera on a tripod and letting the subject move will give an altogether different result. This same technique can be used at night to get car lights on the roads which can be a very effective way of showing movement. Machinery is also a good source of subject as they often look much more interesting in action than at rest – or frozen with flash. Panning can help you to keep the subject sharp.

In some situations, flash can be used though; if you set the camera to slow-sync you can have the combination of a blurred image with a sharp one overlaid on it. If possible set the camera to ‘rear’ or ‘second curtain’ sync or the subject will appear to be moving backwards.

Whatever you approach, though, try and make the movement you capture to say something about the subject – that is what will make the picture work.
   

 

The Call for Entries is now open for LPA Futures Competition 2026-28!

Are you an emerging commercial photographer? Then don't miss this chance to win an agent for 2 years,  plus lots of other incredible prizes to kickstart your career.

All you need to do is enter 10 images and answer 5 questions by October 19th. Entry is free. 

Please find all the details below on how to enter, the judges, the prizes and the terms. Go for it and good luck! 

 

Terms and Conditions:   1) Eligibility

 

ENTRANTS MUST:

1. Be over 18 years old.
2. Be based within the UK or Channel Islands.
3. Only submit work that was produced after October 2020.

 

WINNERS MUST:

1. Agree to the LPA contract (a standard industry photographers/agents contract), which will be provided to all shortlisted photographers who make it through to Round 2 of the judging process.

 

2) Entry Procedure

 

To enter the Competition please submit a total of 10 images (no less and no more) via the entry form here or email question answers and images to futures@lisapritchard.com.

Please only submit work that you feel demonstrates a consistency in your style and is potentially relevant commercially, for example to brands and businesses, advertising and design agencies. Please see the LPA website for more specific examples of commercial work by the LPA photographers and past and current LPA Futures winners.

You will receive confirmation that your entry has been received.

There is no entry fee.

Closing date for entries midnight 19th October 2025.

 

3) Judging Procedure

 

ROUND 1

A panel of industry judges as specified on the Call for Entries, will select a shortlist of photographers online to go through to Round 2.

All shortlisted photographers will be contacted via email by November 3rd. Please note that unsuccessful entrants will not be contacted.

 

ROUND 2

A group discussion will be held by the judges to decide the 3 winners. The final 3 will be contacted via email and/or telephone by EOP December 2nd or sooner depending on Round 2 judging.

The judges’ decision is final and no further discussion will be entered into.

We will also contact the unsuccessful entrants that went through to Round 2 including the 10 runners up who will receive a free 30 minute video portfolio review by Lisa.

 

4) Criteria

 

The goal is to select 3 photographers who demonstrate the potential to be successful commercial photographers. 

We are looking for emerging photographers who have the potential to gain commissions from communication agencies and businesses directly to advertise and promote their products and services. In our experience, photographers who succeed in this area have a recognisable or 'signature’ style, their work has a strong identity and often evokes an emotion or a mood. Aside from having a good eye and being technically faultless, good commercial photographers have a certain something that makes their photography memorable and engaging, whether that's defined by an aesthetic or a subject matter, or both, the viewer often finds something in the images that resonates and that they can connect with. 

We are judging the photography on the portfolio of 10 stills images we have asked the photographers to submit. If the photographer also shoots moving image, that is something that we can also promote during the 2 year representation period and it can be mentioned in the entry form if you feel relevant. However we won’t be selecting the 3 winners based on moving image at this stage.

 

5) Winners

 

Upon signing the LPA Futures contract, photographers will be represented by LPA Futures for a period of 2 years, subject to the terms of the LPA contract. LPA will contact the 3 winning photographers via telephone or email by December 2nd. 

Please note that unsuccessful entrants still in this round but not one of the 3 winners, will not be contacted, aside from the next 7 photographers in the top 10 overall. We will contact these 7 runners up regarding their free 30 minute video portfolio review by Lisa by December 5th. Should any of the selected photographers’ circumstances have changed, we will ask the judges to revote to replace them. 

Upon signing the LPA Futures contract, photographers will be represented by LPA Futures for a period of 2 years for January 2026-January 2028, subject to the terms on the LPA contract. Both parties reserve the right to terminate the agreement with one month notice throughout the 2 year term.

 

6) The Prizes

 

- Representation by LPA for 2 years subject to contract

- A 12-month licence to Bikinilists, a leading global database of photography commissioners

- £300 towards a specialist photographic insurance policy from the UK’s most established photographic insurance broker Williamson Carson

- CAA (Creative Assistants Agency) will provide one creative crew member for up to a day for a test shoot/personal project. This could be a wardrobe, props or set stylist, an assistant, a make-up artist or a home economist and is subject to CAA selecting appropriate crew and availability. CAA and the artist/crew reserve the right to be credited and to use the imagery for their own promotion

- A dedicated feature in Spotlight (category of choice) or Showcase UK Magazine from Production Paradise, plus a two-year international directory listing and global promotion through their newsletter and social channels

- A shoot space for a personal project, provided by JJ Spaces Ltd the UK’s top location resource for photoshoots. This is subject to JJ Spaces Ltd sourcing the appropriate space and availability. JJ Spaces Ltd and the location owner reserve the right to be credited and to use the imagery for their own promotion

- Professional talent for a test shoot from Gingersnap Models. This is subject to Gingersnap Models sourcing appropriate talent and availability. Amount of talent sourced for this test shoot is the ultimate decision of Gingersnap Models. Gingersnap Models and the talent reserve the right to be credited and to use the imagery for their own promotion

- The next 7 photographers in the shortlist (from the top 10) will also be offered a free 30 minute video portfolio review by Lisa Pritchard at a mutually agreeable time

- All entrants will receive a 10% discount to join the Production Paradise directory if they fit the criteria of Production Paradise entry requirements. Please note that Production Paradise is a curated platform, so all new members’ portfolios are reviewed ( by Production Paradise) to ensure they meet commercial relevance and quality standards

All prizes need to be redeemed within the 2 year period January 2026-January 2028

 

7) Copyright/Usage of Images

 

Copyright remains with the photographer at all times. All work must be the photographer’s own original work. The selected 3 photographers must have the full right to allow their work to be reproduced in the LPA Futures exhibition and associated press, publicity and promotional material in all media worldwide, including but not limited to the LPA blog, social media and website, plus external press and publicity for the Competition. LPA may crop the image to fit the design. Each entrant warrants that they own the entire copyright worldwide in their work and that all necessary model releases and other third-party clearances have been obtained so all images can be used for the promotional purposes outlined above. Images by entrants not selected will not be used for publicity without prior written consent. There will be no additional usage of images by winners without prior written consent.

 

8) Indemnity

 

Entrants agree to indemnify Lisa Pritchard Agency against all expenses, damages, claims and legal costs arising out of their breach of any of the warranties in paragraph 7 above.

 

8) Further Information

 

The organiser of the LPA Futures Competition is Lisa Pritchard Agency. To enter the competition, please visit the LPA website.

 

Markets are full of photographic opportunities thanks to the colourful array of products and people that pass through them. However, they can also be a little daunting, especially in foreign locations but if you remember a few simple steps, you shouldn't have too many problems. These include asking to take close-up portraits, not getting in the way of those running a business and the most important but simple step: be polite.

 

1. Lenses for photographing candid market images

Wide lenses will give you the opportunity to capture stallholders and customers in their environment while a longer lens can be useful if you'd prefer to shoot more candidly. Consider a telephoto zoom for more flexibility.

2. Flash can make photos look less natural

Try to avoid flash as not only can it be distracting, it can also spoil the atmosphere you're trying to capture. As indoor markets tend to be low on light this can mean working with higher ISOs but most DSLRs cope with this fine so you can still capture great low light imagery.

Leave the tripod at home as the legs will just get in the way of other visitors. If you find you really do need a support, find a flat, solid surface you can rest your camera on. It's also worth keeping an eye on your white balance as some indoor lighting can leave a coloured tint in your shots. 

 

 

3. Interact with people to gain their trust

Capturing portraits of people at work or shots of those visiting the market, buying goods, is the best approach to take. Shooting candidly is fine but for portraits with impact, take the time to ask the stallholders if you can take some shots of them up close. If language is a barrier, try smiling and pointing to your camera as this will often get the message across. Always thank your subject and take the time to show them the result. It'll also help if you can learn how to say 'hello', 'please' and 'thank you' in the language of the country you're visiting, if venturing away from home. 

If someone looks uncomfortable because you're taking their photograph make sure you stop and walk away and always read up on what's acceptable and what isn't and respect the views/practices of the country you're visiting.
 

4. Capture as much as you can

Remember to shoot lots and often as lots can happen in a market. Switching to continuous shooting mode can help, but it's not essential, you could also try shooting from the hip if you don't want to draw as much attention to yourself. 
 
When you do have the opportunity to work more closely, try a slightly tighter framing to see what results are produced. If you have particularly large stalls to deal with that have lots of produce between you and the seller this could mean using the power of a zoom lens to pull them to you rather than you moving your feet. 

If you're making a special trip to a particular market do remember to check:

• Opening times
• Busy times
• Restocking times (so that you're not in the way)

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|294692|294692_1758524696.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Leedslass1 (Day 22 - River).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 16

Rugged Landscape

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|32616|3846201[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 17

Night Architecture

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|311542|311542_1758108383.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 18

Cats

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|42656|42656_1758169450.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

  Day 19

Textures

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|242789|242789_1758303154.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 20

Safari

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|13524|1039406[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 21

Ducks

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|48973|48973_1758470179.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

 

Fog and mist give instant mood, adding an extra level of environmental interest to your shots. You actually do not have to do anything special apart from just being out in it with your camera. So, whether you are walking the dog or on your daily commute to work, it is worth having a camera with you for those unmissable mist images.
 

1. Camera Choice

Any camera is good for mist photography and you can use any lens too, so just stick to your favourite combination. There is nothing wrong with using a top-end compact if carrying a DSLR around with you is not feasible.
 

2. Lens Options

In terms of lens choice, a wide-angle lets you show the tonal differences between foreground and misty background in a gradual way. Look for bold foreground detail and strong lines (rocks, trees, pathways, rivers etc) to make the most of this effect.

The foreground is just as important with [AMUK]telephoto lenses|telephoto+lens+lenses+zoom[/AMUK]. Shoot a misty scene with no foreground and there is no perspective, no sense of depth. This can work fine but most scenes need some foreground interest to give that three-dimensional quality and the tonal transition is much more abrupt.

3. Ultra-Violet Or Skylight Filter?

You probably already have your lenses fitted with an ultra-violet or skylight filter; if you don't it is a worthwhile consideration if you bear in mind that a filter is cheaper to replace than a lens.  On misty days when you can have tiny water droplets settling on your lens this will affect image sharpness, so being able just to wipe them off without being too delicate is a bonus.

 

 

4. Use A Tripod

If you have the room it's a good idea to pack your tripod as exposures can be on the long side as not much sunlight will be able to get through the fog/mist you're photographing. It should also help you keep horizons straight too, although some cameras feature a level or some sort of grid-guide that can help you level your camera for straight horizons. 

 

5. Valleys And Low-Lying Areas

Mists forms in low-lying areas (valleys, for example) and over water so if you fancy the idea of shooting mists, those are the sorts of places to head for. To add a touch of mysticism or eeriness to your work head for thickly wooded areas where fog and mist will weave around the trees.
 

6. Meters Can Be Fooled

Camera meters are often fooled into underexposing misty scenes so they come out looking very grey, rather than light and airy which usually looks better. Setting +0.5EV or +0.7EV will help avoid this. In strongly backlit scenes you might need up to a +1 or +2 exposure value to record the delicacy of the mist.

Shooting in Raw and doing the adjustment later is an option but it makes sense to get it right in the first place.
 

7. Work Quickly

Finally, remember to get there in plenty enough time so if there is a mist, you have time to scout a few good spots and then decide which is best. Conditions can change very rapidly, so shoot quickly, perhaps bracketing exposures, and then move on.

 

A Red Squirrel caught mid-leap with two birds in the background has won our ‘Photo of the Week’ (POTW) prize.

Captured by maratsuikka and titled ‘I can too’, this is an excellent action shot that shows perfect timing and skill. The fast shutter speed freezes the Squirrel in mid-jump, with sharp detail visible in its face, ears and paws. The birds add context and balance to the composition, while the clean background keeps the focus on the subjects for a standout wildlife photograph.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2026, we’ll crown our 2025 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

 

Rivers make a wonderful subject for the outdoor photographer, yet people rarely set out with the intention to photograph them. Rivers offer an abundance of opportunities from grand sweeping vistas to detailed abstracts to wildlife as well as being fantastic places to enjoy the outdoors. Here are 6 key pointers to help you achieve better river and open water landscapes.

  1. What is the unique character of the river?

As river locations have their own unique character, one role of the photographer is to identify and emphasise this character. You can do this by asking a series of questions when you first arrive at a location:

• Is this a large and impressive river or a small natural bubbling stream?
• Is this a setting people might describe as being idyllic and picturesque or is it more of an urban or industrial setting?
• Is the river clean and pure or dirty and full of litter?
• Does the setting convey a feeling of tranquillity and calm or are there other emotions it sparks and if so what?
• Is the river fast-moving and powerful or more slow and sedate?
• Is the water surface rough and broken by rocks or flat, calm and full of reflections?

 

2. Shutter speeds

Give some consideration to the shutter speed you will be using. Don’t just stop down to a small aperture for good depth of field and accept the shutter speed. Increase the ISO a little if you need to as the shutter speed can be a big influence the character of the image you create.

Long shutter speeds give smooth water and reflections, which all add to a sense of calm and tranquillity. Fast shutter speeds freeze the water and can really emphasise the feeling of power and strength in the water.

 

 

 

3. Use a remote shutter 

With the remote shutter, you could position your tripod in a shallow part of the river to get a shot with a different angle without having to be stood for a long time in the cold water. Obviously, you need to be very careful if you want to try this as you don't want your camera or yourself going for a swim! The remote control is also useful when photographing wildlife that lives around the river as you'll be able to set your camera up and move away, increasing your chances of shy wildlife coming back to the spot your camera is in.  
 

4. Make the most of the weather

The weather conditions, time of day and time of year all help in determining the type and quality of light you will have to work with. It may sound obvious but you can’t do too much about these factors so look to create photographs that make the most of the light you have available.

Immediately after a rainstorm, when the weather breaks can also produce magical lighting. The clearing rainstorm in the image above produced very dramatic lighting, despite being shot at midday. The rain also helped swell the river to give a great cascading effect over the rocks.

The weather condition that is one of the best for adding mood and character is mist and fog. Rivers in autumn are often great locations for mist early and late in the day. Such conditions tend to be best around sunrise and sunset, often catching the colour of the early morning sun. Look for the larger slow-moving rivers located in open fields as these often give rise to the best mist.

 

 

5. Consider the time of day 

Early morning and late evening light is probably what most photographers think of as being the best light. Typically the sky is colourful and with larger, slower-moving rivers, this great light will be reflected making the river appear to glow. Shutter speeds will be longer at this time of day which also helps smooth out the surface of the river. This is probably the best lighting conditions to create a mood of calm and tranquillity. It’s not always easy to organise yourself to be out photographing at this time of day but it is immensely rewarding in terms of images and the sheer pleasure of watching a sunset or sunrise.

Midday light, at least outside the winter months, tends to be a little harsh and it can be difficult to reflect the character of the river in its setting. If however, the river is in an urban landscape this type of lighting can still work well at it can be used to emphasise the unattractive elements. Also, if the river is strong and powerful you can use the bright lighting to freeze the action. If you find yourself trying to work under harsh lighting conditions that don’t suit your location, try to seek out wooded areas where there is plenty of shade or focus in on capturing detail shots.

Autumn is also a great time of year to photograph rivers and streams in woodland areas. Trees will be changing colour making for vibrant scenes. Leaves will be falling into the river, often gathering in pools around rocks. Here be on the lookout for opportunities to shoot swirling patterns caused by leaves caught in the river's current. With longer shutter speed this slow movement can be recorded as a swirling pattern. Consider using a polarizing filter to give a longer shutter speed but also to emphasise and saturate the vibrant autumn colours.

 

6. Think about where you stand

The direction in which you shoot the river can also have a huge impact on the character of you convey in your photograph. Shooting across a river tends to create a rather static image that flows in on one side of the composition and out on the other. If you have to compose with the river flowing horizontally across the image try to include something in the foreground of the frame to create a feeling of depth to the image.

Often large areas of the riverbank are nothing but grass. In these situations, there is little to hold the viewer's attention. Try to find locations where there is something to include in the foreground such as rocks and reeds.

Shooting along the river from its bank offers more potential especially where the river tends to bend and meander. Long straight rivers are less photogenic but can offer some potential. Look for long stretches where the perspective of the river can be emphasised using a wide-angle lens. The best positions, however, tend to be on bends as this lets you show off the bend and lead the eye into the image. Curves are more photogenic and pleasing to the eye than straight lines. Bends also allow you to position yourself so you look like you are shooting from in the river. This can further be enhanced by a long lens to ensure there is no foreground. When doing this though remember to include a point of interest to focus the viewer’s eye and attention.

   

Feeding ducks is something everyone enjoys but next time you head off for your Sunday morning stroll around your local pond, pocket your camera as well as the treats you take for the Mallards and Swans.

 

1. An opportunity to get close to wildlife

As ducks are used to people visiting with goodies they're not usually skittish so getting close to them shouldn't be a problem. Even still, taking along a small bag of birdseed to scatter will keep the ducks in front of you for longer increasing the chances you have of getting a good shot.

Flat banks are the perfect location for photographing ducks as the low angle gives you a shot that has more of a duck's eye view. If you don't want to work hand-held, take along a light-weight tripod or beanbag to sit your camera on.
 

2. Which season is best?

Winter's a great time to head to the water's edge as the sun sits at a lower angle for longer which means you don't have to get up at the crack of dawn for softer light. You'll also get mist rolling over the water – perfect for silhouetting a bird against. For a bit of variety try shooting their reflections or look for interesting behaviour such as fighting or preening activities.

 

3. Need more details?

If you find their feathers are lacking in detail try adding a little fill-in flash. Just remember for birds such as Swans that have lighter feathers you'll need slightly stronger light. This time of year when lakes can be slightly frozen light will be reflected off the icy surface back under the duck, highlighting detail in their plume. For particularly gloomy days switch to a slightly higher ISO so you can use a quicker shutter speed. If you're out when the sky is rather bright keep an eye on your exposure if Swans are around as a white bird against a bright sky may mean your camera underexposes the shot.

For shots of birds in flight make sure you're on continuous focus and get the focus locked on the bird straight away. To freeze their movement in the air or when they're splashing on the water try a shutter speed of around 1/500sec but if you want to be a little more creative try to blur the motion of the wings with a slower speed of around 1/30sec.   

 

 

The Society of Photographers is excited to host a series of free-to-enter photographic roadshows across the UK. Now in its 11th year, these events offer an excellent opportunity for photographers of all experience levels to explore innovative industry trends, connect with leading photography brands, and gain valuable insights through expert-led Masterclasses.

 

A Unique Learning Experience

Each roadshow starting at 09:30, will feature three FREE Masterclasses led by renowned photographic educators, covering topics such as lighting techniques, business strategies, and inspirational storytelling. Attendees will have the chance to learn from an impressive lineup of speakers, including Raj Khepar, Gary Hill, Luke Davis, Mr Whisper (Balwinder Bhatla), and Rebecca Douglas.

 

Leading Brands in the Industry

The accompanying trade shows will showcase top photographic companies, allowing attendees to explore the latest equipment, software, and services. Exhibiting brands include Fujifilm, Sony, Canon, Nikon, Elinchrom, Permajet, 3 Legged Thing, MagMod, Gomatic, Click Backdrops, Camera Centre UK, Aaduki Multimedia Insurance, Graphistudio, The Society of Photographers, Professional Imagemaker, Bump2Baby, and Praetego. Manufacturers will also be offering exclusive show deals for attendees.

Event Schedule

Here are the upcoming 2025 Roadshow dates and venues:

September 2025

• Tuesday 16th September – Webbington Hotel & Spa, Somerset
• Wednesday 17th September – Green Park Conference Centre, Reading
• Thursday 18th September – Priestfield Stadium, Kent

 

  An Unmissable Opportunity for Photographers

Colin Jones, CEO of The Society of Photographers, expressed his enthusiasm for the upcoming events: “We are delighted to bring the Roadshows back for 2025. Each event will offer three free Masterclasses, providing valuable insights and tips to help photographers elevate their skills. Alongside this, our trade shows will be packed with leading photographic companies showcasing the latest products and services, with exclusive show deals available. Whether you’re an aspiring or professional photographer, these events promise to be both educational and inspiring. Best of all, entry is completely free!”

 

Register for Free Tickets

To find out more about The Society of Photographers’ 2025 Roadshows and to secure your free tickets, please visit the event website.

Get Your FREE Tickets Today!

 

With half-term coming up in October, you may be looking for something that'll keep the kids entertained but still give you the opportunity to take a photo or two. One location that's worth considering is a safari park as there are some excellent ones based in the UK that'll give you the opportunity to capture frame-filling images of Lions and other animals usually seen on an African plane. 

 

1. Photographing wildlife from your car or a bus 

As you're going to be stuck in your car, or the safari park's transport service, a long lens is a must. Something like a 70-300mm telephoto will do nicely but if you have a longer one take that along too as smaller subjects such as birds will look tiny otherwise. The inside of a car isn't the place for a tripod but having something to support your camera when you're working with long lenses is a good idea. You can get window-mounted tripods but a beanbag is a cheaper and easier way to go. Simply place it on a surface, rest your camera on it and click away. As you're shooting through glass pack a lens hood and/or a polarizer filter as they'll both help minimise reflections. 

 

 

2. Use queueing to your advantage

People moan about having to queue but if you're a photographer at a safari park this could work to your advantage as it means you'll have time to observe your surroundings. If you can wait in one position for a while to snap interesting behaviour. If you're visiting the park to see one particular animal make sure you've done your research so you know what time of day they'll be out and most active. Keep an eye on the weather too as this can make some animals retreat to cover and you'll be left with empty shots of fields. However, if you do get to the park when it's raining don't get too down-hearted as some animals don't mind the rain and raindrops on the fur and the reflection of light on wet surfaces can create very moody photos.

 

3. Small changes make a big difference 

As you're in a small space it can be tricky to move and find different angles to shoot from but there are plenty of other things you can do to improve your shots. Always make sure the eye is in focus and when it is don't click the shutter straight away – wait for the glint in the eyes that can make both human and animal portraits come to life. Sometimes you'll have to wait for the animal to move to get this but all you have to do is keep re-adjusting your framing until the moment arrives. If it's portraits you're particularly after make sure you zoom in to make them frame-filling and if you have cars or other distracting items in the background wait until you've changed position to take the shot or blur it out of sight with a large aperture. If it's a group of lions or a herd of elephants you're photographing use a smaller aperture such as f/22 to limit the blur to get the whole group in the shot.

When you're in a hurry it's easy to forget about composition so you'll put your subject slap bang in the centre of the image. For some shots this will create a strong portrait but try to resist doing it every time and really think about the rule of thirds when framing up. You also need space for your animal to walk into and don't amputate an animals extremities – a lion missing the tip of its tail won't look right.

As you have to keep your windows up you'll be shooting through glass so to minimise reflections make sure you have your lens against the window. If you have one, try using a lens hood or you could put your spare hand above or to the side of the lens to help minimise reflection. As the engine will be running you'll find the glass will be vibrating so speed up the shutter speed to minimise shake. You may also find manual focus handy as glass can sometimes fool a camera.

One more, very important point is to observe the rules. We don't want to hear any stories of ePz members who were turned into lunch!

- Partner Content - 

 

Autumn conditions can be challenging but they can be glorious too, so have your kit ready and the bag by the front door ready for early starts. Exposure for this was 1/1000 sec at f/10 and ISO 800. Image by Will Cheung.

 

With autumn almost upon us, keen photographers will be dusting down their lenses and charging their batteries, ready for this hectic season. Whether your passion is for birds, colourful leaves, fungi or deer, this season is prolific for photographs and you’ll need the right kit if you want to join the party. 

With massive stocks of used imaging kit, MPB is the best place to start building your autumn outfit and save money at the same time. MPB only buys items after they have been thoroughly checked over by its team of experts, and on its website, what you see are actual images of the items on sale. Importantly, every item is sold with a 14-day return period and a free 12 month warranty.

 

A long telephoto combined with the 1.5x crop factor of the Sony A6700 gives plenty of magnifying power for tightly cropped portraits of distant subjects. The exposure was 1/1000 sec at f/9 and ISO 800. Image by Will Cheung.

 

For our nature outfit, we’ve allowed a budget of £3000 for a Sony mirrorless outfit with lenses for wildlife and a macro lens for fungi and nature abstracts.

It was a tough call for the system centrepiece with Sony having full-frame and APS-C format cameras in its line-up. Budget, or rather the lack of it, ruled out models such as the A7 V and A1, but full-frame is always worth considering. On MPB’s site I found a good condition Alpha A7R IV with 82,329 shutter actuations under its belt for £1389. The A7R IV is a fine camera and having 61 megapixels under the bonnet gives the opportunity for cropping in editing while still giving a large final image. Upon reflection though, going APS-C offers better value for money and the 1.5x crop factor is an important benefit for nature shooting, giving telephoto lenses even greater pulling power.

Top of Sony’s APS-C range sits the Alpha A6700, a 26-megapixel camera with a five-stop benefit in-body image stabiliser, 11fps continuous shooting with its electronic shutter and a very capable phase detect AF system. 

MPB has stocks of the A6700 at prices from £1169 in excellent condition to £1279 for an ‘as new’ sample. An excellent condition A6700 had just 367 shutter actuations and that was priced at £1209  - a new model costs £1399 - so that’s an excellent buy. MPB has a big turnover so there is a regular churn on stock. If you don’t find your dream purchase on your first visit to its site, allow some time and try again.

 

Misty conditions can be challenging because of poor lighting levels and the lower contrast can make autofocusing a little less sure-footed. Exposure was 1/500 sec at f/7.1 and ISO 1600. Image by Will Cheung.

 

Being APS-C format, the A6700 body is naturally more compact than full-frame cameras but that does not compromise handling which rates highly. It’s true that the rangefinder design takes a little getting used to, with the viewfinder eyepiece on the far left side and there’s no focus joystick. However, the right-sided on/off switch, nice size AF-ON button, ample customisation options and articulating monitor are all major contributors when it comes to the camera’s user-friendly nature. 

Autofocusing is rapid, accurate and responsive with the system’s 759 phase detection points covering 95% of the frame area and there’s the option of subject detection and tracking for humans, animals, birds and various vehicles. 

When you need to shoot continuous bursts, the A6700 is capable of 11fps with AE/AF tracking and compressed raw format but this uses its electronic shutter. Rolling shutter is a risk with fast moving subjects so there is 5fps continuous shooting with the mechanical shutter. The buffer is big enough for bursts of up to 50 compressed raws, so there’s plenty of capacity.

On the all-important point of image quality, the A6700 won’t let you down even when you need to tap into its higher ISO settings where very clean results can be had at ISO 1600 and more especially with raws treated with software denoising.

 

With the denoising skills of the latest software noise, shooting at very high ISO speeds is not an issue. This was an ISO 3200 raw denoised in Adobe Lightroom. The exposure was 1/500 sec at f/7.1. Image by Will Cheung.

 

In respect of lenses for nature, there’s plenty in the way of choice whether you prefer Sony or third party options. A benefit of the success of Sony’s interchangeable lens cameras and its attitude to independent makers is that there is a huge choice available covering all sorts of focal lengths, zoom range and price levels.

It’s in the ranks of third party brands where we focused our search on MPB’s website for a telephoto with the range to handle distant birds and mammals. The Sigma 150-600mm f/5-6.3 DG DN OS Sport seemed ideal for our needs and an excellent example was on offer for £1079. With the A6700’s 1.5x crop factor that lens equates to a 225-900mm range in full-frame so there’s plenty of power to pull in distant detail.

 

Sigma’s 150-600mm f/5-6.3 DG DN OS Sport powerful telezoom is ideal for capturing wildlife and will give a decent image size of distant subjects.

 

Considering the huge focal length range, this Sigma telezoom is surprisingly compact and is rich in features including weather sealing, an optical stabiliser, a useful 1:2.9 magnification and an advanced design with six of its 25 elements being special lenses to deliver an outstanding performance at a great price. Even shooting wide open gives crisp, flare-free images and fine detail rendition. It is a full-frame capable lens so with the A6700 looks small when it’s attached, but if full-frame comes along in the future you have a lens ready to go.

With the camera and lens earmarked, that leaves just over £700 out of our £3000 budget to spend. 

For fungi, leaf details and insects, the Sony FE 90mm f/2.8 Macro G OSS focuses down close enough to give life-size magnification and it’s known to be a capable optical performer. MPB has used samples of this lens in the £529-654 price range so going for one at the lower price leaves cash enough for a wide-angle prime for scenic shooting. Laowa, Sigma and Tamron are other brands with macro lens options worth checking out.

Finally, available for between £159-189, the Sony FE 28mm f/2 is a suitable contender to round off our nature-oriented outfit. It’s compact, lightweight, performs very well wide open and the focal length isn’t too difficult to use for frame-filling compositions.

 

Soon after dawn light levels are still low so using a monopod  is recommended. It provides invaluable support without being too unwieldy in fast moving situations. Exposure of 1/250 sec at f/9 and ISO 1600. Image by Will Cheung.

 

So with our £3000 budget and MPB’s keen pricing and vast stocks, here’s a three lens camera outfit that will go a long way to making the most of the shooting season ahead. The wide-angle prime suits landscapes and broader tree studies, the 90mm macro is perfect for fungi, textures and the patterns of nature and the 150-600mm zoom can cope with everything from small birds and mammals up to red deer, our largest native land mammal. 

Whatever kit you own, have a great autumn with your camera.

 

 

News from MPB

The summer’s over and, as we’ve discussed, the possibilities for great nature pictures are huge over the coming months. With the need for fast shutter speeds, ISO control and long telephoto lenses, there’s much common ground between action and nature regarding techniques and kit.

MPB has recently published two sports photography features on its website. Click here for MPB’s Top 5 Camera Bodies for Sports Photography and here for an in-depth Guide to Sports Photography. Full of advice and kit hints, these are unmissable features for budding sports shooters.

 

MPB Explained

You need kit to take photographs and produce videos, and taking the used route is a cost-effective way of making the most of your budget and keeping up with the latest developments in imaging technology.

MPB is one of the biggest used retailers with bases in the UK, Germany and the USA.

Trading with MPB the process is fair, safe, painless and incredibly easy.

Whether you have kit to sell, want to make a purchase or part exchange, start by going to the MPB website which is intuitive and straightforward to use.

If you have kit to trade, just start typing the name in and a list of suggestions from MPB’s huge database will appear. If a name on that list matches your product click on it and add its condition; if not, continue typing in the whole name and condition.

It’s worth bearing in mind that MPB’s database covers much more than cameras and lenses so if you have, for example, a photo backpack, tripod or filters to sell these can be shown as you type in their name too.

With all your kit listed, add contact details and a quote will appear in your inbox soon afterwards, although manually entered items will take one working day.

If you are happy with the quote, accept it and follow the instructions to get the kit ready for courier collection on a day to suit you. For higher-value deals, an MPB account manager will also be in touch, so you have a personal point of contact if you have any queries.

Once received by MPB, you will get a notification and after checking by its product specialists you will receive a final quote. This can vary from the original quote if there is a missing item —like a battery not being supplied—or your assessed condition differs from the actual condition.

A quote can go down, but it can also increase if the kit’s condition is better than your assessment.

The whole process doesn’t take long and MPB are in touch by e-mail at every step so you’re never in the dark, and only when you are totally happy with the deal, pass on your payment details or pay the balance in the case of part-exchange. Either way, the money or your new kit will be with you soon after.

Get A Quote From MPB Today

 

About MPB

• MPB is the largest global platform to buy, sell and trade used photo and video kit.
• MPB is the simple, safe and circular way to trade, upgrade and get paid.
• MPB is not a marketplace, instead buying directly from visual storytellers and evaluating all items before reselling MPB-approved kit.
• MPB's dynamic pricing engine provides the right price upfront for all items.
• Circularity is at the centre of MPB, promoting sustainability, diversity and inclusion in everything they do.
• MPB prioritises inclusive recruitment and supports employees with extensive training and development. They promote inclusive visual storytelling and an inclusive circular economy.
• MPB's business model is 100% circular. All packaging is 100% plastic-free. Their cloud-based platform uses 100% renewable electricity.
• MPB recirculates more than 570,000 products annually
• MPB provides first-class customer service. Customers can receive support through their Help Centre or by speaking directly with a kit expert.
• MPB's product specialists are trusted by thousands of visual storytellers in the UK.
• MPB is rated ‘Excellent’ on Trustpilot with over 37,000 reviews.

Visit The MPB Website

 

Our landscape is abundant with rocky views from the gneiss rocks of Scotland, through the limestone pavements of the Yorkshire Dales, to the rocky Jurassic coastline of Dorset. Move-in closer and their patterns and textures provide fabulous abstract opportunities for photographers.

 

1. Gear Choices 

The beauty of this technique is any camera/lens combination can be used. No special kit is needed - just a good eye for the best viewpoint and artistic flare to determine the best composition. You could use a tripod to be sure of a rock (excuse the pun) solid view, especially when shooting patterns on the ground, as it can be harder to hold the camera rigid when you're pointing downwards. If you do use a tripod make sure it has an option to splay the legs out wide so you don't get them in the shot.

A standard lens is ideal, especially for rocks patterns below your feet - either a fixed 50mm or short zoom from around 35-70mm range is fine. Use a longer lens if you can't get close enough to the rock face. This is ideal for distant coastal cliff faces or mountainsides. A lens with a close focus will be handy when the texture is more important...you can focus in close on the more intricate details of the rock's composition.

 

2. When To Take Your Photos 

Shoot in overcast light if you want less contrast, but this can reduce the impact of the photo. Sunlight casts shadows making the patterns of rugged rocks become almost 3D. You can use the flash from your camera set to fill to reduce the shadows. If you use a camera that has flash control set the flash compensation to -1 in sun-behind-clouds situations and -2 in bright sunlight. The result will be a reduction in the density of shadow areas, but still enough to give the necessary 3D effect.

 

3. Where To Look

Some of the best patterns can be seen in strata, layers of rock that have been formed by layer upon layer of rock or soil millions of years ago. These layers have become exposed by erosion from the sea or natural earth movement or from being cut away to make roads.

Some of the best viewpoints for photography can be found on the coastline. Go to any rocky coastline and you're likely to find interesting rock patterns and textures, whether on the cliff faces or the natural pavement you walk on. Cliff faces provide head-on views and show the strata with the most dramatic lines while the ocean bed, exposed at low tide, can provide smoother more interesting shapes.

Look for rocks covered on lichen - coastal and exposed mountain moorland areas or dense woodland where it's likely to be regularly damp are ideal for this sort of texture. Use the lens on close focus to crop in on the minute detailed textures and patterns.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition     

 

There seems to be a current trend for larger, fast prime lenses, and this Sigma 135mm f/1.4 DG Art lens absolutely follows that brief. It is large, it is moderately heavy, and it is also the only f/1.4 AF lens of this focal length available today. This makes it look rather attractive and we might expect beautiful out of focus backgrounds for portraiture in particular. It is a full frame DG lens, and also one of Sigma's state-of-the-art Art range, aspiring to the highest standards. So let's couple it up with the 42MP Sony A7R III body and see whether or not it delivers all of its promise.

 

Sigma 135mm f/1.4 DG Art Handling and Features

The lens is bulky but the actual weight does not feel too onerous. The figures vary slightly with lens mount.

 

Sony FE 111.7mm x 137.5mm

1420g quoted

1425g measured with tripod foot

1546g measured with tripod foot and hood

L Mount 111.7mm x 135.5mm 1430g quoted

 

The lens is solidly made and feels great to handle. There is a large provided round lens hood that bayonets smoothly into place. There is a locking catch. Within the bayonet mount for the hood is a standard 105mm filter thread, quite an expensive option if a few filters need to be purchased. The hood is very deep, and should be efficient at protecting the front element.

 

 

As we take our tour of the lens, next up is the well ribbed and utterly smooth electronic focusing ring. This Sony version supports all the usual options, selected via the camera menus. AF is driven by two HLA motors (High Response Linear Actuators) and is certainly virtually silent, very fast and very accurate. Focusing is down to 1.1m (43.4"), for a maximum magnification of 1:6.9. This is closer than a traditional manual focus 135mm lens, although not approaching macro distances.

There are two AFL buttons provided, and just three switches. The usual AF/MF switch is joined by a de-click switch for the aperture ring (useful in particular for videographers) and also an aperture ring lock switch. This last option prevents the A setting from being accidentally nudged off its setting, or indeed engaged accidentally if we wish to use the excellent aperture ring instead.

Optical construction is 17 elements in 13 groups, including 4 FLD and 2 Aspherical. FLD elements are fluorite-like and approach the qualities of the very expensive fluorite elements and bring the corrections they allow into an affordable form. The diaphragm comprises 13 blades, and as we look into the front element we can clearly see that the result is an impressively rounded aperture. This bodes well for bokeh.

 

 

Dust and splash resistance is almost a requirement and rounds out an excellent specification. The front element also resists contamination by dust, grease and moisture and should be easier to keep clear. The tripod foot rotates, useful for changing from landscape to portrait orientation when on a tripod, and in any event helps to keep the body of the lens well clear of any tripod mount. It also helps to keep the lens steady when hand held, improving the grip.

There is no inbuilt IS, so the camera is relied upon and Sony's SteadyShot handles this very well indeed. Of course, no amount of IS can reduce subject movement, so the wide aperture can be very useful when shooting close wildlife. Handling is hazard free. It does not take long to find the best grip for what is quite a chunky lens, but it is not excessively heavy and that helps considerably. The lens is great to handle, but is the performance great to match? Let's find out.

 

 

Sigma 135mm f/1.4 DG Art Performance

Central sharpness is excellent at f/1.4 and f/2, outstanding from f/2.8 to f/5.6, excellent at f/8 and still very good at f/11 and f/16. The edges are excellent from f/1.4 to f/8, rising to outstanding at f/4, and still very good at f/11 and f/16. The performance is also very even right across the frame.

 

Sigma 135mm f/1.4 DG Art MTF Charts Previous Next

How to read our MTF charts

The blue column represents readings from the centre of the picture frame at the various apertures and the green is from the edges.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Sony A7R III using Imatest. Want to know more about how we review lenses?

 

CA is approaching zero at the centre, and at the edges are held to a creditable half a pixel or so. It is highly unlikely that colour fringing will be noticed in even the most demanding subjects.

Distortion measures +0.23% pincushion, so we really might as well say totally rectilinear. This is great for architectural subjects in particular.

 

Sigma 135mm f/1.4 DG Art Chromatic Aberration Charts Previous Next

How to read our CA charts

Chromatic aberration (CA) is the lens' inability to focus on the sensor or film all colours of visible light at the same point. Severe chromatic aberration gives a noticeable fringing or a halo effect around sharp edges within the picture. It can be cured in software.

Apochromatic lenses have special lens elements (aspheric, extra-low dispersion etc) to minimize the problem, hence they usually cost more.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Sony A7R III using Imatest.

 

Bokeh is the smoothness of the out of focus areas in an image and the general gradation of such areas. This is one of the things we would be looking for in this lens, being both a short telephoto and a very fast (bright) maximum aperture. It excels, and the bokeh is just sublime, especially at wider apertures. Lovely.

Flare is almost totally eliminated, and even with bright light sources in frame it is all but impossible to generate any artefacts.

Vignetting is minimal, with some of the lowest figures seen in any lens.

 

Aperture Vignetting f/1.4 -0.8 f/2 -0.8 f/2.8 -0.4 f/4 -0.4 f/5.6 -0.4 f8 -0.4 f/11 -0.4 f/16 -0.4

 

Sigma 135mm f/1.4 DG Art Sample Photos Previous Next

 

Sigma 135mm f/1.4 DG Art Aperture range Previous Next

You can view additional images in the Equipment Database, where you can add your own reviews, photos and product ratings.

 

[HOOK]position_1[/HOOK]

Value For Money

The [AMUK]Sigma 135mm f/1.4 DG Art|Sigma+135mm+f/1.4+DG+Art[/AMUK] lens is priced at £1649.00 and is available in Sony FE and L mount versions.

As it is the only 135mm f/1.4 AF lens available at the time of writing, it stands alone in terms of VFM. However, we can compare its cost with the increasingly large number of top quality 135mm f/1.8 lenses:

• [AMUK]Canon RF 135mm f/1.8L IS USM|Canon+RF+135mm+f/1.8L+IS+USM[/AMUK], £2399
• [AMUK]Nikkor Z 135mm f/1.8 S Plena|Nikkor+Z+135mm+f/1.8+S+Plena[/AMUK], £2299
• [AMUK]Samyang AF 135mm f/1.8 FE|Samyang+AF+135mm+f/1.8+FE[/AMUK], £794
• [AMUK]Sigma 135mm f/1.8 DG Art|Sigma+135mm+f/1.8+DG+Art[/AMUK], £1149
• [AMUK]Sony FE 135mm f/1.8 GM|Sony+FE+135mm+f/1.8+GM[/AMUK], £1599
• [AMUK]Viltrox 135mm f/1.8 Z|Viltrox+135mm+f/1.8+Z[/AMUK], £829

The new Sigma is pitched at an impressively low cost and seems excellent VFM.

 

 

Sigma 135mm f/1.4 DG Art Verdict

The current trend seems to be for large, fast lenses with high quality optics, and the new Sigma 135mm f/1.4 DG Art lens fulfills that brief perfectly. Although in the past I have felt that 135mm was a little too long for a portrait lens, when coupled with the current wider apertures it does deliver a new look of its own. We can add to that suitability for close range sports, landscape and wedding/social photography.

It has the quality, has a character of its own and is priced very attractively. It's a great lens at a great price and is Highly Recommended.

 

Sigma 135mm f/1.4 DG Art Pros

• Excellent to outstanding sharpness
• Central CA virtually banished
• Excellent flare resistance
• Minimal vignetting
• Very well made
• Virtually rectilinear
• Dust and splash resistant
• Sublimely smooth bokeh
• Slick handling
• Excellent pricing

Sigma 135mm f/1.4 DG Art Cons

• Heavy and bulky

 

[REVIEW_FOOTER]R_features=4.5|R_handling=4.5|R_performance=5|R_value=4.5|R_overall=4.5|A_level=4.5|A_text=Highly Recommended – Beautifully made, sublime bokeh and outstanding sharpness|E_id=8027[/REVIEW_FOOTER]

.borders { border: 1px solid #ccc !important; border-collapse: collapse; } .borders td,.borders tr { border: 1px solid #ccc !important; } .borders { border: 1px solid #ccc !important; border-collapse: collapse; } .borders td,.borders tr { border: 1px solid #ccc !important; }

    1. Be Patient  Photographing lively animals like cats is all about patience – try not to get frustrated if your animal won't do what you want. Remember, it is at heart a wild animal and they won't always do what you want them to do. You might want to sit around with your camera without taking photos a few times too so they get used to seeing the camera and won't attack it or run away when you take it out of its bag.   2. Be Ready The most difficult thing about photographing animals, no matter how large or small, is that they move at the most inopportune moments. Setting your camera to continuous shooting mode may help you capture a good shot as they run off in a different direction. DSLRs feature quick continuous shooting modes but don't worry if you're not a DSLR owner as many compacts also have a continuous shooting mode built-in. Compact camera owners can also switch to sport/action mode to increase your chances of getting a blur-free shot.    

 

3. Ask For Assistance 

If you are looking to capture some action or movement shots, get someone else to play with your cat, distracting them so you can get some shots of them swiping and jumping without them going for your camera. Try getting your cat to run by throwing a toy or treat, and snap it in full run. Quicker shutter speeds or switching to sports/action mode will help you freeze your cat's movement. To further enhance the feeling of speed, pan your camera, following your cat as they run. This will, hopefully, keep your cat sharp while the background is thrown nicely out of focus. If you don't want to have a go at panning, pre-focus on a spot where you know your cat will run through and hit the shutter button when they come into frame.

 

4. Candids & Close-Ups

Another technique, to create a more wild effect, is to watch your cat outside for a while and snap more candid style shots of it hunting or climbing on a wall. Try shooting side-on so you can get a shot just as it leaps into action.

If you want some close-up shots of your feline friend, try dangling a toy above it to get it to look up from the ground. You could also try getting your cat to paw at you to give the impression that it's leaping. Dangling a toy will also encourage your cat to keep still and keep its attention focused, to stop it from wandering off. For less action-based shots, why not try capturing it lying down or stretching. Some really lovely shots can be taken while they're resting/sleeping, for example.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition  

 

When buildings are illuminated at night their shapes and features are enhanced in a very different way than by daylight and it's a great time to take photographs. The most challenging thing is getting the exposure and colour balance right, which we'll help with, otherwise, the standard rules of composition apply which we'll cover briefly first.

 

1. Composition - Don't Forget The Basics 

When shooting upwards expect the building to slope inwards at the top, especially when a wide-angle lens is used. Move to a higher position to reduce the distortion or use a special shift lens that's designed to correct perspective but these are expensive and aren't really a sensible option for the casual shooter.

Try to include the whole building by using a wider angle lens or stepping back to a more suitable viewpoint. Choose the position carefully. The same building could be shot head-on, at an angle of, say, 3/4 or by using a telephoto to capture a section with a more graphical feel. Don't forget you can zoom with your feet as well as your lens, too. When it comes to focusing, manual is your best option. 

  2. Exposures

When the sun goes down the light changes in two ways; firstly the exposure time required increases and secondly the colour of the light becomes warmer. Let's first look at the exposure. In low light, the shutter speed that's necessary to ensure a good exposure will usually be too long to avoid camera shake when hand-holding the camera. Using a tripod enables you to shoot at these long exposure times of between 1/15sec and several seconds or even minutes. If you don't have a tripod you can usually find a wall, lamppost or tree to support the camera, which can help considerably. Or you can try switching to a higher ISO as most cameras now cope well in the higher ranges. This means that in low light situations, such as shooting buildings at night, you can take photos with minimal noise or blurring. You'll also want to put your camera's self-timer into action or use a remote release if you have one as even pressing the shutter button can introduce shake that'll leave your with blurry shots. Consider using the Mirror Lock-up function, too which can be accessed via your camera's menu. 
 

3. Metering

Low light can also fool the camera's meter and this happens because it looks at the mass of dark and tries to compensate to make it mid-grey. By doing so, you get an exposure time that is too long for all the illuminated parts of the scene, such as neon lights, street lights or spotlit areas of a building as they become grossly overexposed.

To avoid this, you need to compensate for it. As a guide, use your exposure compensation setting to reduce the exposure by a couple of stops when most of the area is in darkness and by one stop when the building has a medium coverage of illumination.

 

4. Colour Balance

Illuminated buildings offset against a dark sky can look great, but you have to be careful with the colour as there can be a slightly orange or yellow cast created. Buildings illuminated by artificial light can also be problematic, depending on the lighting used in them. Two popular types are Fluorescent and Tungsten. Fluorescent tend to be used inside in offices and Tungsten in spotlights that part illuminates buildings.

With digital cameras, you can preview the image to check the colour balance and if it doesn't look right, just change the white balance setting you're using. Cloudy will warm your shots up while the Tungsten options will give your images a more blue tone. 

  5. Security

Take care when carrying a camera around at night, especially if you're venturing off the beaten track. Keep alert and where possible, take a friend with you.

  6. What To Capture 

Look for tall buildings you can shoot from. From up high you'll be able to shoot skylines as well as focus on single buildings. For something different, try to shoot the same location in daylight and in the evening. You'll soon see how buildings have a very different feel at night. Cropping in on illuminated buildings can make the image more striking and reduce the black from the surrounding, unlit areas. To give streetlights a 'starburst' use a small aperture which will also give you front-to-back sharpness in your shots too. Exposure times will be longer but if you have your tripod, this won't be an issue. If people are still exploring the city you can use them to add more interest to your shots. Get creative with silhouettes against well-lit structures or how about using slightly longer shutter speeds, say 1/2 a second, to blur the movement of people who pass through your shot. Don't increase your exposure times too much if you want to keep the patterns people create passing through your images though as anything above 15 seconds will probably remove them from your image. Bridges can be used to draw the eye through the image to a particular structure or focus your attention on famous buildings and landmarks which are guaranteed to be lit-up at night.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition  

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|154993|154993_1757730204.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Mike43 (Day 13 - Stairs & Steps).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 9

Bridges In The Landscape

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|320788|320788_1757402063.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 10

Music Photography

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|44582|3704130[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 11

Shopping

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|23199|23199_1757585269.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

  Day 12

City Skylines

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|41212|41212_1757671186.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 14

Lights

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|44488|44488_1757841705.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 15

High-Up

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|119459|119459_1757925606.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

 

When using a tripod on terrain that is rocky, uneven, or hilly, there are a few things that you can do to make sure your tripod is as stable as it can be. Some of these tips may seem like common sense, but they will hopefully help prevent any accidents such as your camera taking a plunge in a river!

 

1. Weight And Load

Before you venture out make sure you're using a tripod that can support the weight of your gear. Also, if you're buying a new tripod and are planning on getting larger heavier lenses in the future do take this into consideration when making your purchase. Look for a light tripod rated for the highest weight as you'll soon notice the weight of your tripod once you're halfway up a wet, uneven hillside. 

 

2. Assess Your Environment

It's always better to be safe than sorry, so make sure that the area is stable enough to stand your tripod on before setting up. If you're working on very rocky terrain or near the edge of a big drop, make sure the tripod is not liable to slip.

It can also take a while to set your tripod up so it's always a good idea to find your location and have some ideas about composition before putting your camera on its support. 

 

3. Legs Before Column

When setting up, extend the legs before extending the centre column. Extending just the centre column is one quick operation and you are ready to shoot, but it is not good technique and can leave you with an unstable base to work with.

 

 

4. Adjust The Legs

Extend the fattest leg section first and keep the thin, spindly legs till last for when you really need the height. Having a wider base to work with is always a wise decision as they are more stable. Many tripods now offer various angle settings that lock at different degrees.

 

5. Ensure Your Tripod Is Level

Many tripods and tripod heads have built-in spirit levels to help you keep the tripod level. If your tripod hasn't, buy a spirit level to fit onto the camera's accessory shoe.

 

6. Position Of Your Tripod's Legs

Point one of the legs towards your subject so you have room for your feet between the two other legs. This will mean you have one less thing you have to worry about falling over when working on tricky terrain. 

 

 

7. What Feet Does Your Tripod Have?

Most tripods have rubber feet which absorb shock and offer good grip, but some do have spiked feet. Spiked feet can be bought as optional accessories or sometimes you can get both types in one. They're particularly useful for outdoor photographers as most of the time you'll end up working on loose soil, dirt, and other surfaces that will be uneven. 

8. Keep It Stable On Windy Days

Some tripods have a hook which you can feature a centre column hook, you can hang a bag of stones or other weighty objects off it to balance the tripod. Another option is to take a heavy camera bag and wrap the strap(s) around the tripod's head to add extra weight. For lighter tripods, use your body as a shield from the wind. Sticking spiked feet into the ground will also help keep the tripod still, they're particularly useful when working at the coast to stop waves knocking your gear into the sea. 

Another option is to use a piece of string or some nylon webbing can add extra stability. Tie one end to the centre column and have the other tied in a loop. Next time in a strong wind, have the string/webbing hanging down and slip your shoe into it and lean down. Your body weight will give extra stability.

   

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition  

 

A black and white photo titled Mappleton Beach with storm clouds above by Pete2453 shows storm clouds hanging over the East Yorkshire coast. The horizon is softened, giving the black and white scene a simple look that shows light, shape, and texture. The rocks show a touch of colour, adding a small contrast. Their rough surfaces sit against the smooth tones of the sky and sea.

The result is a calm yet powerful look at land, sea, and sky. It is a dramatic and atmospheric landscape of a familiar coast shaped by weather and time.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2026, we’ll crown our 2025 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

 

The beauty with photography is you're not restricted with how you can take a photograph. You can play with as many lights as you can afford, add filters, gels and play with numerous other gadgets to alter the look of your photograph. But even though there are all these toys waiting to be played with, one of the simplest ways to change the way your image looks is to get up high.
 

1. Gear Choices

A telephoto lens is useful for pulling distant scenes to you while a wide lens is great when you're trying to get a whole town/city in the shot. A tripod's also handy if you're using longer lenses but not always a necessity and they won't be allowed in some locations. If shooting at night, a camera with good low-light capabilities will come in handy. 

  2. Locations

Don't look for your nearest skyscraper, get in a lift, ride to the top floor and start snapping shots of the city. You'll cause more trouble than it's worth, and there are plenty of other places that don't have huge panes of glass between you and the view.

If you're away you probably have a balcony you can get a few shots from or if your hotel has a roof terrace head up there with your kit and set up somewhere out of the way. Just ask if it's OK to do this first otherwise you could raise a few eyebrows. Look out for observation decks, bridges and even the big wheels that are popping up in cities. These usually take an hour to complete a full circle giving you ample time to get a few cracking shots.

 

3. New Look

Shooting straight down on a building that's been photographed hundreds and hundreds of time will instantly make your shot stand out and it will give you the opportunity to include the nearby streets to highlight the shapes and patterns not usually seen. You'll also be able to see how shadows are elongated and help add texture to your image. If you're not far enough away from the town/city all the buildings could appear to be all on the same level so you'll have nothing that distinguishes between foreground or background interest. To combat this problem look for something you can have in your foreground to help break up the shot.

 

 

4. Not So High

If heights aren't your thing why not try climbing a few steps or even standing on a wall to escape the standard view we usually see in shots. Looking over the bannister of a spiral staircase, for example, works well but it is something that's overdone and a little clichéd so be warned. Try taking a walk up a hill in the countryside near a city and you'll be able to shoot down to capture a cityscape.
 

5. Close-Up Work

Look out for buildings which stand out and use your telephoto lens to home in on them. These could be well-known landmarks, churches or even football stadiums.
 

6. Keep Your Feet On The Ground

If you want a series bird's eye view why not try a spot of kite photography? Some have even tried throwing their camera up in the air to put a unique twist on photography from a height. Although, this isn't something we'd recommend doing! 

   

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition  

© OM SYSTEM

 

OM Digital Solutions Corporation has announced the release of the M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 50-200mm F2.8 IS PRO. Designed in full compliance with the Micro Four Thirds System standard, this model proudly joins the OMSYSTEM line of imaging products.

This large-diameter super telephoto zoom lens features a constant F2.8 aperture throughout the zoom range with a 100-400mm equivalent focal length that goes up to 800mm equivalent1 (when using the M.ZUIKO DIGITAL 2x Teleconverter MC-20), offering truly unique photographic experiences.

This model delivers excellent resolution across the entire zoom range that only the PRO series and its culmination of cutting-edge optical technologies can provide. It is compatible with 5-axis sync IS (up to 7.0 steps2 of compensation) for powerful support during handheld super telephoto shooting. With a maximum image magnification of 0.5x equivalent1, it also offers superb close-up photography capabilities. This high-performance super telephoto zoom lens is designed to meet the demands of photographers across a wide range of genres, from sweeping natural landscapes to fast-moving birds, elusive wildlife to detailed macro shooting. This lens is sold on order basis.

 

Key Features of the M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 50-200mm F2.8 IS PRO:

• One-of-a-kind high image quality, large-diameter super telephoto zoom lens offering 100-400mm, F2.8 equivalent with the lens alone, and up to 800mm, F5.6 equivalent when using the 2x teleconverter
• 5-axis sync IS for easy handheld shooting with up to 7.0 steps of shutter speed compensation
• Excellent reliability and operation that supports shooting even in harsh natural environments

 

© OM SYSTEM

 

At OM SYSTEM, we have always been a pioneer in optical design. From the beginning, M.ZUIKO lenses have symbolized precision, quality, and reliability. With a heritage dating back to 1936, we continue to innovate for the photographers of tomorrow. The M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 50-200mm F2.8 IS PRO is a true innovation, offering unmatched range, speed, and portability across a vast array of photographic genres.

 

Pricing & Availability for M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 50-200MM F2.8 IS PRO:

The M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 50-200mm F2.8 IS PRO will be available from 6th October 2025, at a suggested retail price of £2,999

For more information, please visit the OM SYSTEM website.